Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Targe 995/153J-001
Movement
Manual winding
Size
45 mm
Edition
Unique piece.

Overview

A Highland targe in paillonné enamel

The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts pocket watch Targe, reference 995/153J-001, a unique piece in yellow gold with a Highland shield in engraving, brown enamel and 680 gold paillons on the case back, a hand-engraved dial, and a Cairngorm cabochon crown. Manual-winding calibre 17''' LEP PS with small seconds; 45 mm, 9.72 mm high.

The reference 995/153J-001 is a pocket watch from Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts collection, a unique piece in yellow gold whose case back is made to read as a targe, the round leather shield of the Scottish Highlanders. The case is 45 mm across and 9.72 mm high with a solid back, humidity- and dust-protected only and not water-resistant. It is delivered with a yellow gold stand in the form of a Scottish dirk, its hand-engraved hilt set with a Cairngorm stone (0.12 ct), on an oval base of lightly grained brown leather; and with a yellow gold chain suspending a medallion worked in engraving, enamel and paillonné enamel.

The leather is an illusion built in three layers. The back was hand-engraved with a pattern of volutes first; over it the enameller laid brown enamel in 2 colours, graded so that the engraving shows through as grain; and into the surface went 680 gold paillons — spangles set into the enamel in the paillonné technique — standing for the brass studs of the shield. The work took 8 to 9 firings at 770°C. A hand-engraved geometric frieze runs round the border of the back, the bezel and the bow. The dial is hand-engraved with a motif from Scottish culture, seen through brown enamel, with a minute scale in gold paillons, applied Arabic numerals and pierced Dauphine-style hands in yellow gold; the crown carries a Cairngorm cabochon (0.15 ct). The movement is the manual-winding calibre 17''' LEP PS with small seconds: 38.65 mm across, 3.8 mm high, 157 parts, 18 jewels, a Breguet balance spring at 18,000 semi-oscillations an hour, at least 50 hours of reserve and the Patek Philippe Seal.

For collectors

Patek Philippe's figure for this piece is 680 paillons — each one a stud on the shield — set into a palette of only 2 colours; the effect is engraving and spangles rather than painting. The stones are Cairngorm, the Scottish smoky quartz, on both crown and dirk, so the materials follow the subject.

Key details

Case materialYellow gold
MovementCaliber 17''' LEP PS, manual winding
CollectionRare Handcrafts

Design and engineering

  • Paillonné enamel over engravingVolutes hand-engraved on the case back under graded brown enamel in 2 colours, to read as leather; 680 gold paillons set into the surface as the shield's studs; 8 to 9 firings at 770°C.
  • Hand-engravingA geometric frieze around the border of the case back, the bezel and the bow.
  • DialHand-engraved with a motif from Scottish culture, under brown enamel; a minute scale in gold paillons, applied Arabic numerals and pierced Dauphine-style hands in yellow gold.
  • Case and crownYellow gold, 45 mm across, 9.72 mm high, solid case back; the crown is set with a Cairngorm cabochon (0.15 ct). Humidity- and dust-protected only, not water-resistant.
  • Stand and chainA yellow gold stand in the form of a Scottish dirk, its hand-engraved hilt set with a Cairngorm stone (0.12 ct), on an oval base of lightly grained brown leather; a yellow gold chain with a medallion in engraving, enamel and paillonné enamel.

Calibre 17''' LEP PS

  • Manual winding
  • Small seconds
  • 38.65 mm across, 3.8 mm high; 157 parts, 18 jewels
  • 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz), Breguet balance spring
  • Power reserve min. 50 hours
  • Patek Philippe Seal

The reference

Technical specifications

Rare Handcrafts Targe
Reference995/153J-001
CollectionRare Handcrafts
CalibreCaliber 17''' LEP PS
MovementManual winding
FunctionsSmall seconds
Case dimensions45 mm
Case thickness9.72 mm
Case materialYellow gold
Water resistanceNot water-resistant
Jewels18
Power reservemin. 50 hours
Frequency18,000 semi-oscillations/hour (2.5 Hz)
TypePocket watch
PieceTarge
EditionUnique piece.

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Rare Handcrafts Targe · Ref. 995/153J-001

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