Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Dandelion 992/173J-001
Movement
Manual winding
Size
44.1 mm
Edition
Unique piece.

Overview

A dandelion in flinqué and paillonné enamel

The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts pocket watch Dandelion, reference 992/173J-001, a unique piece in yellow gold with a dandelion in flinqué and paillonné enamel on the case back, a flinqué dial with paillon filaments as hour markers, and an emerald cabochon crown. Manual-winding calibre 17''' LEP PS with small seconds; 44.1 mm, 9.15 mm high.

The reference 992/173J-001 is a pocket watch from Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts collection, a unique piece in yellow gold whose case back shows the head of a dandelion at the moment before its plumed seeds are carried off. The case is 44.1 mm across and 9.15 mm high with a solid back, humidity- and dust-protected only and not water-resistant. The piece is delivered with a yellow gold stand shaped as two plumed dandelion seeds, set with 88 diamonds (3.21 cts) on an oval verdite base carrying a Pakistani emerald cabochon (0.35 ct), and with a yellow gold chain decorated with two verdite ornaments and 10 diamonds (0.1 ct).

The case back is flinqué enamel: a sunburst guilloché pattern was cut by hand first, so that it shows through the translucent enamel laid over it. On that ground the enameller built the heart of the flower in opaque and transparent enamels in 10 colours, refined it with miniature painting on enamel, and picked out the seeds with paillons — gold spangles embedded in flux, a transparent enamel — in the paillonné technique. The back needed 25 firings at 800°C. The dial repeats the flinqué ground, with the hour markers and minute scale drawn as dandelion filaments in paillons finished in miniature painting, again in 10 colours; the hands are leaf-shaped in yellow gold and the crown carries a Pakistani emerald cabochon (0.2 ct). The movement is the manual-winding calibre 17''' LEP PS with small seconds: 38.65 mm across, 3.8 mm high, 157 parts, 18 jewels, a Breguet balance spring at 18,000 semi-oscillations an hour, at least 50 hours of reserve and the Patek Philippe Seal.

For collectors

Patek Philippe gives the enamelwork in figures — 10 colours on the back and 10 on the dial, 25 firings for the back — and lists the stand and the chain with their own stone counts, so the piece is a set of three objects rather than a watch alone.

Key details

Case materialYellow gold
MovementCaliber 17''' LEP PS, manual winding
CollectionRare Handcrafts

Design and engineering

  • Flinqué enamelHand-cut sunburst guilloché on the case back and a guilloché ground on the dial, both showing through coats of translucent enamel; the engraving is what gives flinqué its light.
  • Paillonné enamel and miniature paintingThe dandelion's seeds on the back, and the filaments that serve as hour markers and minute scale on the dial, are gold paillons set in flux and finished in miniature painting on enamel; opaque and transparent enamels in 10 colours on each, 25 firings at 800°C for the back.
  • Case and crownYellow gold, 44.1 mm across, 9.15 mm high, solid case back; the crown is set with a Pakistani emerald cabochon (0.2 ct). Humidity- and dust-protected only, not water-resistant.
  • Stand and chainA yellow gold stand of two plumed seeds set with 88 diamonds (3.21 cts) on an oval verdite base with an emerald cabochon (0.35 ct); a yellow gold chain with two verdite ornaments and 10 diamonds (0.1 ct).

Calibre 17''' LEP PS

  • Manual winding
  • Small seconds
  • 38.65 mm across, 3.8 mm high; 157 parts, 18 jewels
  • 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz), Breguet balance spring
  • Power reserve min. 50 hours
  • Patek Philippe Seal

The reference

Technical specifications

Rare Handcrafts Dandelion
Reference992/173J-001
CollectionRare Handcrafts
CalibreCaliber 17''' LEP PS
MovementManual winding
FunctionsSmall seconds
Case dimensions44.1 mm
Case thickness9.15 mm
Case materialYellow gold
Water resistanceNot water-resistant
Jewels18
Power reservemin. 50 hours
Frequency18,000 semi-oscillations/hour (2.5 Hz)
TypePocket watch
PieceDandelion
EditionUnique piece.

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Rare Handcrafts Dandelion · Ref. 992/173J-001

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