- Movement
- Self-winding
- Size
- 38 mm
Overview
A time-and-date Traditionnelle, self-winding
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Self-Winding, reference 87172/000R-9302, in 18K pink gold with a silver-toned opaline dial, small seconds at 9 o'clock and a date window at 3, on a brown alligator strap. Self-winding calibre 2455/1 with balance-stop; 38 mm, 8.02 mm high, certified to the Hallmark of Geneva.
The reference 87172/000R-9302 is Vacheron Constantin's Traditionnelle Self-Winding in what the brand's page calls 18K 5N rose gold. The page describes the case back's exterior as grooved and the minute track as railway-style, both of which the brand ties to the Traditionnelle collection's established look. The silver-toned opaline dial reads small seconds at 9 o'clock, with a date shown opposite at 3 o'clock, both in a window rather than by hand; hour and minute hands are 18K gold dauphine-style, with applied hour-markers in the same metal. The case measures 38 mm across and 8.02 mm high, water-resistant to 30 m, on a brown alligator leather strap closed by an 18K pink gold Ardillon buckle.
The self-winding calibre 2455/1 drives the hours, minutes, small seconds and date: 26.2 mm across, 3.6 mm high, 194 parts and 27 jewels, running at 28,800 V.P.H. (4 Hz) for a stated 40-hour power reserve, with a balance-stop function. Turning the watch over, an openworked case back shows an elevated oscillating weight in 22K gold, which the brand describes as shaped by the Maltese cross. The watch is certified to the Hallmark of Geneva; the brand's own account dates the mark to 1886, when the Republic and Canton of Geneva established it as a standard for provenance, craftsmanship and reliability.
For collectors
The calibre 2455/1's oscillating weight is described as elevated above the movement plate, a different construction from the peripheral, edge-mounted rotors the tourbillon calibres described elsewhere in the group use -- worth checking against a photograph of the case back rather than assuming from the reference alone.
Key details
Design and engineering
- Case and dial18K pink gold case with a silver-toned opaline dial; small seconds at 9 o'clock, with a date window opposite at 3 o'clock, against a railway-style minute track. The brand's own text describes the metal as 18K 5N rose gold.
- Case backA grooved exterior case back, which the brand ties to the Traditionnelle collection's established look; the movement side is openworked and shows an elevated 22K gold oscillating weight the brand describes as shaped by the Maltese cross.
- Movement functionsHours, minutes, small seconds, date by aperture and a balance-stop function -- the page names balance-stop without describing its mechanism.
- CertificationCertified to the Hallmark of Geneva.
- Strap and buckleBrown alligator leather strap, closed by an 18K pink gold Ardillon buckle.
Calibre 2455/1
- Self-winding
- Hours, minutes, small seconds, date by aperture, balance-stop
- 26.2 mm across, 3.6 mm high; 194 parts, 27 jewels
- 28,800 V.P.H. (4 Hz)
- Power reserve 40 hours
- Hallmark of Geneva
Specifications
Technical specifications
| Reference | 87172/000R-9302 |
|---|---|
| Collection | Traditionnelle |
| Calibre | Calibre 2455/1 |
| Movement | Self-winding |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Small seconds, Date by aperture, Balance-stop |
| Case dimensions | 38 mm |
| Case thickness | 8.02 mm |
| Case material | 18K pink gold |
| Case back | Transparent sapphire crystal caseback |
| Water resistance | 3 bar (30 m) |
| Dial | Silver-toned opaline dial. Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Railway minute-track. 18K gold dauphine-style hour/minute hands and applied hour-markers. |
| Strap | Brown alligator leather |
| Clasp | 18K pink gold ardillon buckle |
| Movement dimensions | 26.2 mm × 3.6 mm |
| Components | 194 |
| Jewels | 27 |
| Power reserve | 40 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Certification | Hallmark of Geneva |
Buying with HYPA
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