- Case
- Bezel guilloched with hobnail pattern
- Movement
- Self-winding
- Size
- 38 mm
Overview
A hobnail Calatrava around a hand-worked dial
The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Matador, reference 5177J-001, a Calatrava in yellow gold with a hobnail bezel and a hand-engraved dial of a matador's embroidered suit of lights on black, on a grained red calfskin strap with a second in black. Self-winding calibre 240, hours and minutes; 38 mm, 8.3 mm high.
The yellow gold execution 5177J-001 has a hand-engraved dial with no enamel, reproducing the gold-and-black embroidery of a matador's traje de luces, the suit of lights. Patek Philippe describes the engraver chasing the top layer of the dial to a silky texture for the ground, drawing the embroidery with a dry-point needle so the lines read as gold thread, and cutting the stitching at the centre with an onglette graver, all against an intense black background. The hands are pierced dauphine-style hands in yellow gold. Patek Philippe presents it as a limited edition of twenty watches, and the reference is delivered with two straps, red grained calfskin fitted and black grained calfskin beside it, on a yellow gold prong buckle.
The reference 5177 is a Calatrava of Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts collection: a round case 38 mm across and 8.3 mm high, with a bezel guilloched in the hobnail (clous de Paris) pattern the brand calls emblematic of its style, a sapphire crystal back and water resistance to 30 m. Dauphine-style hands in the case metal show the hours and minutes.
The movement is the self-winding calibre 240, which Patek Philippe lists as ultra-thin: 27.5 mm across and 2.53 mm high, with 152 parts and 27 jewels, wound by a 22K gold minirotor set off-centre in the movement rather than a full rotor turning above it. It runs at 21,600 semi-oscillations an hour on a Gyromax® balance with a Spiromax® balance spring, has a power reserve of at least 48 hours and carries the Patek Philippe Seal. It is on view through the sapphire crystal back.
For collectors
The hobnail bezel is the constant across the executions and the dial the variable: Patek Philippe gives each dial its own figures — the gold wire, the colour count, the firings — or, on the engraved dial, the tools the engraver used, and each is a limited series whose size the brand states. There are no stones on the 5177; the case metal and the guilloché are the whole of the setting.
Key details
Design and engineering
- CaseYellow gold, 38 mm across and 8.3 mm high, with a sapphire crystal back; water-resistant to 30 m.
- Hobnail bezelGuilloched with the hobnail (clous de Paris) pattern, which Patek Philippe presents as emblematic of the Patek Philippe style.
- DialHand-engraved, without enamel: the top layer chased to a silky texture, the embroidery of the suit of lights drawn with a dry-point needle, the stitching at the centre cut with an onglette graver, on an intense black background.
- HandsPierced dauphine-style hands in yellow gold for the hours and minutes.
- Strap and buckleTwo straps: grained red calfskin, hand-stitched, fitted, and grained black calfskin supplied beside it, on a yellow gold prong buckle.
Calibre 240
- Self-winding, 22K gold off-centre minirotor
- Hours and minutes; listed by Patek Philippe as ultra-thin
- 27.5 mm across, 2.53 mm high; 152 parts, 27 jewels
- 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz), Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring
- Power reserve min. 48 hours
- Patek Philippe Seal
The reference
Technical specifications
| Reference | 5177J-001 |
|---|---|
| Collection | Rare Handcrafts |
| Calibre | Caliber 240 |
| Movement | Self-winding |
| Functions | Ultra-thin |
| Case dimensions | 38 mm |
| Case thickness | 8.3 mm |
| Case material | Yellow gold |
| Case | Bezel guilloched with hobnail pattern |
| Case back | Sapphire crystal case back |
| Water resistance | 30 m |
| Strap | Calfskin, hand-stitched, grained red |
| Clasp | Yellow gold prong buckle |
| Jewels | 27 |
| Power reserve | min. 48 hours |
| Frequency | 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz) |
| Piece | Matador |
Buying with HYPA
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