- Case
- Bezel guilloched with hobnail pattern
- Movement
- Self-winding
- Size
- 38 mm
Overview
A hobnail Calatrava around a hand-worked dial
The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Man with a Mustache, reference 5177G-057, a Calatrava in white gold with a hobnail bezel and a cloisonné and flinqué enamel dial of a mariachi skull, on a blue calfskin strap. Self-winding calibre 240, hours and minutes; 38 mm, 8.3 mm high.
The dial of 5177G-057 is a mariachi skull for the Day of the Dead in cloisonné and flinqué enamel. The plate was first hand-guilloched with a plume motif and coated in translucent enamel so the pattern shows through — the flinqué technique; the enameller then laid the skull's outlines in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel with about 55 cm of gold wire (~0.37 g) and filled the cells from transparent, opaque and semi-opaque enamels in 32 colours. Each dial took 12 to 14 firings at 800°C to 840°C. Patek Philippe presents it as a limited edition of ten watches, in white gold on a blue calfskin strap with a vintage finish and turquoise stitching.
The reference 5177 is a Calatrava of Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts collection: a round case 38 mm across and 8.3 mm high, with a bezel guilloched in the hobnail (clous de Paris) pattern the brand calls emblematic of its style, a sapphire crystal back and water resistance to 30 m. Dauphine-style hands in the case metal show the hours and minutes.
The movement is the self-winding calibre 240, which Patek Philippe lists as ultra-thin: 27.5 mm across and 2.53 mm high, with 152 parts and 27 jewels, wound by a 22K gold minirotor set off-centre in the movement rather than a full rotor turning above it. It runs at 21,600 semi-oscillations an hour on a Gyromax® balance with a Spiromax® balance spring, has a power reserve of at least 48 hours and carries the Patek Philippe Seal. It is on view through the sapphire crystal back.
For collectors
The hobnail bezel is the constant across the executions and the dial the variable: Patek Philippe gives each dial its own figures — the gold wire, the colour count, the firings — or, on the engraved dial, the tools the engraver used, and each is a limited series whose size the brand states. There are no stones on the 5177; the case metal and the guilloché are the whole of the setting.
Key details
Design and engineering
- CaseWhite gold, 38 mm across and 8.3 mm high, with a sapphire crystal back; water-resistant to 30 m.
- Hobnail bezelGuilloched with the hobnail (clous de Paris) pattern, which Patek Philippe presents as emblematic of the Patek Philippe style.
- DialCloisonné and flinqué enamel of a mariachi skull: hand-guilloched with a plume motif under translucent enamel, the skull outlined in about 55 cm of gold wire (~0.37 g) and filled in 32 colours of transparent, opaque and semi-opaque enamel; 12 to 14 firings at 800°C to 840°C.
- HandsDauphine-style hands in the case metal for the hours and minutes.
- Strap and buckleCalfskin in blue with a vintage finish and turquoise stitching, hand-stitched, on a white gold prong buckle.
Calibre 240
- Self-winding, 22K gold off-centre minirotor
- Hours and minutes; listed by Patek Philippe as ultra-thin
- 27.5 mm across, 2.53 mm high; 152 parts, 27 jewels
- 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz), Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring
- Power reserve min. 48 hours
- Patek Philippe Seal
The reference
Technical specifications
| Reference | 5177G-057 |
|---|---|
| Collection | Rare Handcrafts |
| Calibre | Caliber 240 |
| Movement | Self-winding |
| Functions | Ultra-thin |
| Case dimensions | 38 mm |
| Case thickness | 8.3 mm |
| Case material | White gold |
| Case | Bezel guilloched with hobnail pattern |
| Case back | Sapphire crystal case back |
| Water resistance | 30 m |
| Strap | Calfskin, hand-stitched, dark blue |
| Clasp | White gold prong buckle |
| Jewels | 27 |
| Power reserve | min. 48 hours |
| Frequency | 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz) |
| Piece | Man with a Mustache |
Buying with HYPA
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