- Movement
- Self-winding
- Size
- 38 or 40 mm
Overview
The Octa Lune on calibre 1300.3
The F.P. Journe Octa Lune Black Label, reference L, in platinum with a blackened gold dial, whitened guilloché silver sub-dials and blued and rhodium-plated steel hands. Self-winding calibre 1300.3 with large date, power reserve and moon phase; 10.6 mm high.
The Black Label Octa Lune pairs a platinum case with the blackened gold dial and rhodium-plated steel beside the blued hands. F.P. Journe gives its production as 2006 to 2010. The brand created the Black Label collection, at a time when it made about 1000 watches a year, as a platinum, black-dial line available only to owners of an F.P. Journe watch and sold only in its boutiques and Espaces.
The Octa Lune is the moon-phase watch of F.P. Journe's Octa line of automatics. Its moon and stars are 18-carat gold on a blue ground, matched to blued hands; the power reserve sits on the left and the large date at 12 o'clock. This version runs on calibre 1300.3.
Journe built the Octa calibre to give a long reserve without weakening the balance. Where other makers added a wheel to the train and then fitted a smaller, less stable balance to live on the energy left, he extended the development of the mainspring itself and laid it on the same level as the gear train and escapement. The spring's low torque lets the rotor wind it quickly; by Journe's figure, one and a half hours on a Chappuis cyclotest gives over 5 days' running. In calibre 1300.3 the off-centre rotor winds in one direction.
For collectors
F.P. Journe lists two movements under the Octa Lune name: the standard execution on the original Octa calibre, wound in both directions, and the Boutique Edition and Black Label versions on calibre 1300.3, wound in one direction, with gilt engravings and a higher jewel and parts count. The calibre is what separates them.
Key details
Design and engineering
- One long mainspringThe reserve comes from lengthening the spring's development rather than adding a wheel to the train, which keeps enough energy at the balance for it to stay a full-size, stable oscillator.
- Uni-directional windingThe off-centre rotor winds in one direction. A slipping mainspring lets the spring slide in its barrel at full wind, so the rotor cannot overwind it.
- Free-sprung balanceNo regulator index: four inertia weights set the rate, with a flat microflamed Anachron spring, a Nivatronic collet laser-welded to it, a mobile stud holder and a pinned stud. In-line lever escapement, 15-tooth wheel.
- Three-position crownPosition 2 sets the date turned one way and the moon turned the other; position 3 sets the time. The date changes instantaneously.
- DialBlackened gold with whitened guilloché silver sub-dials; blued steel hands.
Calibre 1300.3
- Automatic winding, uni-directional, off-centre rotor
- 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), 36 jewels
- Autonomy 160 ± 10 hours
- Amplitude dial-up 280° at 12 hours, 220° at 90 hours
- 30.80 mm overall diameter, 5.80 mm high, 271 parts
- Circular stripes on the bridges, gilt engravings, steelwork with polished chamfers and straight graining
The reference
Technical specifications
| Reference | L |
|---|---|
| Collection | Black Label |
| Calibre | Calibre 1300.3 |
| Movement | Self-winding |
| Functions | Central hours and minutes, Small second at 4h30, Large Date, Power reserve at 10h00, Moon phase |
| Case dimensions | 38 or 40 mm |
| Case thickness | 10.6 mm |
| Case material | Platinum |
| Dial | blackened Gold and whitened guilloché Silver |
| Hands | blued Steel and rhodium plated Steel |
| Jewels | 36 |
| Power reserve | 160 ± 10 hours |
| Frequency | 21'600 Alt/h, 3 Hz |
| Distribution | Black Label collection: available only to owners of an F.P. Journe watch, in F.P. Journe boutiques and Espaces. |
| Status | No longer in the current collection |
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