F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif CF
Movement
Manual winding
Size
42 mm
Edition
Described by the brand as a small production run, following the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu made for Only Watch.

Overview

Numerals only the wearer sees

The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif, reference CF, in tungsten carbide on the tungsten carbide bracelet, with the mirror-polished anthracite grey Grand Feu enamel dial on white gold with frosted numerals. 42 mm and 9.30 mm high; manually wound calibre 1522 in 18K rose gold, central seconds, moon phase and reserve on the back.

The Chronomètre Furtif is the lineSport collection's time-only chronometer, made, in the brand's words, for the pleasure of having the time to oneself: the dial is mirror-polished anthracite grey Grand Feu enamel on white gold, and its numerals and minute track are matte, so they show only when the watch is tilted to the light. The series follows the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu made for Only Watch, whose case and bracelet were tantalum, which the brand calls a first. For the production run Journe chose tungsten carbide for the case and bracelet, with the case back, bumper, bezel ring and crown in tantalum and a titanium folding clasp capped in tantalum. Tungsten carbide, made by combining carbon and tungsten at very high temperature, is a material of specialised technical use; the brand notes that it is biocompatible and shock-resistant and calls it nearly indestructible. Case and dial are made by Les Boîtiers de Genève and Les Cadraniers de Genève, both owned by F.P. Journe.

Calibre 1522 is hand-wound, in 18K rose gold, and shows hours, minutes and seconds from the centre; the reserve indicator and the moon phase are on the back of the movement, at 12 and 6 o'clock, on a plate finished to the same standard as the front. The seconds hand sits directly on the arbor of its own wheel, at the end of a gear train the brand describes as nearly linear and a first for F.P. Journe. The moon is set from the crown in position 2 and the time in position 3. The balance is free-sprung on four inertia weights with a flat micro-flamed Anachron spring laser-welded to a Nivatronic collet, and beats 21,600 vibrations an hour through a linear lever escapement with 15 teeth; the reserve is 56 hours.

For collectors

Two things matter for identifying this watch. The Only Watch piece was tantalum throughout; the series watch is tungsten carbide, with tantalum only in the back, bumper, bezel ring and crown, so a tantalum case and bracelet mark the unique piece, not a production variant. And the moon phase is invisible from the front: it and the reserve are read through the case back, which is why the enamel dial can carry three hands and nothing else.

Key details

Case materialTungsten carbide
MovementCalibre 1522, manual winding
CollectionLineSport

Design and engineering

  • Tungsten carbideCase and three-row flat-link bracelet, sandblasted with polished sides; the case back, bumper, bezel ring and crown are polished tantalum. Titanium folding clasp with a tantalum cap. 42 mm and 9.30 mm high.
  • Furtive dialGrand Feu enamel in anthracite grey on white gold, mirror-polished, with frosted numerals and a matte minute track that appear only at an angle to the light. Matte rhodium-plated steel hour and minute hands, white steel seconds hand.
  • Direct central secondsThe seconds hand is mounted on the axis of a dedicated wheel rather than driven through an intermediate; the nearly linear train to it is, the brand says, its first.
  • Indications on the backMoon phase at 6 o'clock and reserve at 12, on a plate finished as the front is. Crown position 2 sets the moon, position 3 the time.
  • FinishingMain plate with circular graining and grain d'orge; bridges bevelled and circular-grained with Côtes de Genève; steel parts mirror-polished, bevelled, satin-finished or circular-grained according to the component.

Calibre 1522

  • Manual winding, 38 turns of the crown
  • 18K rose gold
  • Linear lever escapement, 15 teeth; free-sprung balance, four inertia weights, flat Anachron micro-flamed spring
  • 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), 21 jewels
  • Power reserve 56 ± 2 hours; amplitude 320° dial-up at 12 h, 280° at 24 h
  • 33.50 mm overall diameter, 5.90 mm high, 197 parts (422 cased on the bracelet)

The reference

Technical specifications

Chronomètre Furtif
ReferenceCF
CollectionLineSport
CalibreCalibre 1522
MovementManual winding
FunctionsDial: hours, minutes and seconds in the center, Back: moon phase at 6 h and power reserve at 12h
Case dimensions42 mm
Case thickness9.30 mm
Case materialTungsten carbide
NotesBack: moon phase at 6h and power reserve at 12h
Dialmirror-polished anthracite grey Grand Feu enamel on white Gold with frosted numerals
Handsmatte Steel and white color Steel
BraceletTungsten carbide
Jewels21
Power reserve56 +/- 2 hours
Movement parts197
EditionDescribed by the brand as a small production run, following the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu made for Only Watch.

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