F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Black Label Q
Movement
Self-winding
Size
38 or 40 mm

Overview

An annual calendar in the Octa frame

The F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Black Label in platinum with a blackened gold and whitened guilloché silver dial and blued and rhodium-plated steel hands. Self-winding calibre 1300.3 with annual calendar: large central date, day and month in windows, off-centre hours and minutes; 10.6 mm high.

The Black Label Octa Calendrier pairs a platinum case with a blackened gold and whitened guilloché silver dial and rhodium-plated steel beside the blued hands. F.P. Journe gives its production as 2004 to 2015. The brand created the Black Label collection, when it made about 900 watches a year, as a platinum, black-dial line available only to owners of an F.P. Journe watch and sold only in its boutiques and Espaces.

The Octa Calendrier added an annual calendar to F.P. Journe's automatic Octa calibre, the third complication built into it. The brand presents it as a world premiere: by its account, the first wristwatch to combine an annual calendar with a large date and a power reserve of more than 120 hours. Every Octa complication shares the same base plate, and Journe's stated challenge was to fit a calendar of this size while keeping the standard movement's dimensions.

The calendar advances the date by itself at the end of months of 29, 30 and 31 days. In the three years out of four that are not leap years, the wearer moves the date by hand from 28 to 29 February with a turn of the crown; the watch then passes from 29 February to 1 March unaided. The large date sits at the centre with day and month in windows, beside off-centre hours and minutes and small seconds at 4:30. Behind it are the Octa's long, low-torque mainspring and free-sprung balance.

For collectors

The Calendrier treats February as a 29-day month. Its one correction a year is the manual step from the 28th to the 29th in non-leap years, after which it reaches March by itself; in a leap year it needs no correction at all.

Key details

Case materialPlatinum
MovementCalibre 1300.3, self-winding
CollectionBlack Label

Design and engineering

  • One base plateEvery Octa complication is built on the same base plate, so the calendar watch keeps the Octa movement's dimensions and case height.
  • Retrograde annual calendarF.P. Journe's name for the mechanism. It recognises months of 29, 30 and 31 days, leaving only the non-leap-year February to the wearer.
  • Long, low-torque mainspringJourne extended the spring's development rather than adding a wheel to the train, so the balance keeps its energy across a reserve of more than five days; a slipping mainspring prevents overwinding.
  • Free-sprung balanceFour inertia weights set the rate, with a flat microflamed Anachron spring, a Nivatronic collet laser-welded to it, a mobile stud holder and a pinned stud. In-line lever escapement, 15-tooth wheel.
  • DialOff-centre hours and minutes, small seconds at 4:30, large central date, day and month in windows. Blackened gold with whitened guilloché silver;; blued steel hands.

Calibre 1300.3

  • Automatic winding, off-centre rotor, slipping mainspring
  • 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), 39 jewels
  • Autonomy 160 ± 10 hours
  • Amplitude dial-up 280° at 12 hours, 220° at 90 hours
  • 30.80 mm overall diameter, 5.80 mm high, 241 parts
  • Circular stripes on the bridges, gilt engravings, polished screw heads with chamfered slots

The reference

Technical specifications

Octa Calendrier Black Label
ReferenceQ
CollectionBlack Label
CalibreCalibre 1300.3
MovementSelf-winding
FunctionsOff centre hours and minutes, Small seconds at 4:30, Large Central Date, Day in window, Month in window
Case dimensions38 or 40 mm
Case thickness10.6 mm
Case materialPlatinum
Dialblackened Gold and whitened guilloché Silver
Handsblued Steel and rhodium plated Steel
Jewels39
Power reserve160 ± 10 hours
Frequency21'600 Alt/h, 3 Hz
DistributionBlack Label collection: available only to owners of an F.P. Journe watch, in F.P. Journe boutiques and Espaces.
StatusNo longer in the current collection

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