- Movement
- Self-winding
- Size
- 40 or 42 mm
Overview
Moon phase on the Octa base
The F.P. Journe Lune Black Label, reference LN, in platinum, blackened gold and whitened silver dial with numerals surfaced with a diamond tool, rhodium-plated steel hands. Self-winding calibre 1300.3 in 18K rose gold: moon phase, large date, small seconds at 4:30, retrograde reserve at 10. 10.7 mm high.
The Black Label Lune is the platinum watch with a blackened gold and whitened silver dial, its gold numerals surfaced with a diamond tool, and rhodium-plated steel hands. F.P. Journe gives the collection's terms: with a production the brand puts at about 900 timepieces a year, it wanted a still more restricted watch, available only to owners of an F.P. Journe watch, in platinum with a black dial, and sold only in the F.P. Journe Boutiques and Espaces. F.P. Journe adds that it makes its dials in its own factory and applies its Invenit et Fecit label to each calibre, invented, produced and assembled in its Geneva workshops.
The Lune is a moon-phase watch on F.P. Journe's automatic Octa base, calibre 1300.3 in 18K rose gold. The brand's account of that base is that it was the first automatic movement with a reserve sufficient for precision timekeeping over five days, or 120 hours, and it states the effective autonomy as 160 ± 10 hours. F.P. Journe presents the current Lune as a revision: a more visible reading of the time and a date twice as large. The model took the Best Men's Watch prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève in 2003.
Two dials in 18K gold sit on the movement. The off-centre hour dial carries gold numerals whose faces are cut with a diamond tool and is ringed by a polished steel circle screwed to the main dial, which the brand counts among its signatures. The main dial holds the large date aperture, a retrograde power-reserve hand on a 120-hour scale, the moon phase and a small seconds at 4:30. The moon is driven by a wheel train of its own, which F.P. Journe says gives a precise indication, and both date and moon are set from the crown in position 2, turned one way for the date and the other for the moon; position 3 sets the time. The off-centre rotor in 22K 5N gold winds in one direction through a self-locking ball bearing, so that small movements of the wrist are used rather than lost.
For collectors
The reserve hand's scale runs to 120 hours while the movement's autonomy is given as 160 ± 10 hours. The two figures are the brand's own pairing: five days is the span over which it claims precision timekeeping, and the scale marks that window rather than the point at which the watch stops.
Key details
Design and engineering
- Octa baseCalibre 1300.3 is the brand's automatic base. In the founder's account its mainspring is 1 metre long and 1 millimetre thick, laid on the same level as the train and escapement, and its low torque allowed fast automatic winding: one and a half hours on a Chappuis cyclotest for over five days' running. The complications built on it keep an identical movement size.
- Moon phaseA dedicated wheel train drives the moon disc. It is set from the crown: in position 2 one direction of rotation moves the date, the other the moon, so no corrector is needed.
- Two dialsAn off-centre hour dial in 18K gold, numerals surfaced with a diamond tool, inside a polished steel ring screwed to the second dial. The main dial carries the large date aperture, the retrograde reserve on a 120-hour scale, the moon phase and the small seconds at 4:30; the reserve is read at 10 o'clock.
- Balance and escapementFree-sprung balance with four inertia weights, flat Anachron micro-flamed spring laser-welded to a Nivatronic collet, mobile stud holder; in-line lever escapement with a 15-tooth wheel. Amplitude 280° dial up at 12 hours and 220° at 90 hours.
- DecorationHigh grade: circular stripes on the bridges, base plate partly circular-grained, polished screw heads with chamfered slots, pegs with polished rounded ends, steelwork with polished chamfers and straight graining.
Calibre 1300.3
- Automatic, unidirectional winding; off-centre rotor in 22K 5N gold
- 18K rose gold
- Instantaneous date change; date and moon set from the crown in position 2
- 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), 36 jewels
- Winding speed 274 anti-clockwise rotations per 24 hours
- Autonomy 160 ± 10 hours; reserve indicator scale 120 hours
- 30.80 mm overall diameter, 5.90 mm high, 271 parts (308 cased with strap)
The reference
Technical specifications
| Reference | LN |
|---|---|
| Collection | Black Label |
| Calibre | Calibre 1300.3 |
| Movement | Self-winding |
| Functions | Central hours and minutes, Small second at 4h30, Large Date, Power reserve at 10h00, Moon phase |
| Case dimensions | 40 or 42 mm |
| Case thickness | 10.7 mm |
| Case material | Platinum |
| Dial | blackened Gold and whitened Silver, Gold numerals surfaced with a diamond tool |
| Hands | rhodium plated Steel |
| Jewels | 36 |
| Power reserve | 160 ± 10 hours |
| Frequency | 21'600 Alt/h, 3 Hz |
| Distribution | Black Label: available only for owners of an F.P. Journe watch, and only in the F.P. Journe Boutiques and Espaces. |
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